Three days on exotic French Polynesian islands! What’s that going to be like? In the days leading up to our consecutive port stops in Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora, I pictured scenes from “South Pacific” and other movies, as well as my imaginings of endless beaches, palm trees, and the serenity of island life. Is that what I found? You may have to read to the end of this blog to find out!
French Polynesia is a collection of 118 islands in the South Pacific Ocean which is an overseas territory of France. Located about 2,500 miles south of Hawaii, the combined area of water and land is about the size of Europe. The total population, all French citizens, is approximately 300,000 with 200,000 living on the largest island, Tahiti. France provides much of the economy of the islands by paying for defense, education, medical care, roads etc. The capital of French Polynesia is Papeete, located on Tahiti, and that’s where our ship docked on Sat Feb 21. This city of 125,000 did not look at all like the island paradise in my mind!
Tahiti
After meeting our excursion guide at the bustling Papeete port dock, our group of seven got into a comfortable, air-conditioned van to start our tour, “Discover Tahiti Nui, its landscapes and iconic sites.” For over five hours, we drove the entire 75 miles around the “nui” or large section of Tahiti, stopping at every important site, getting out into the oppressive heat, and learning about the history and culture of the island.
Our first stop was Point Venus on the northern coast, so named by Captain James Cook, a British explorer, on his first trip to this island in 1769 when he came to view and study the “Transit of Venus”.
Further along the coast, we stopped for a short walk through a forest to the Faarumai Waterfalls, which cascade over rocky cliffs into a natural pool.
Our stop at the Jardin Botanical Gardens was much too brief. But I did manage to get a few pictures of ginger flowers, and my niece captured the floating water lilies.
The last stop on our around-the-island tour was to Grotto de Maraa, a deep cave with a spring-fed fresh-water lake. The ceiling of the grotto was covered with moss and ferns, watered by the water soaking through the upper rocks.
At the end of the day, what had I discovered on this “Discover Tahiti” tour? Monuments + waterfalls + botanical gardens + a cave + a crowded city did not = an island paradise!
I certainly had NOT seen the island paradise I had expected.
Moorea
The following day, we sailed a short distance to the island of Moorea, and moored in Opunohu Bay, the bay where Captain James Cook arrived in 1777 on his third Pacific voyage. It was pretty amazing to see the same view he had so many years ago from his sailing ship.
We tendered to the dock in Papetoai, and the first building I spotted was an orange-roofed, octagonal church, the oldest Protestant church on the island, established in 1822 and still used for services today.
Months ago, sitting in my home office, I had picked a shore excursion that made sense at the time, but now I wondered if “Island Drive and Belvedere Point” would really give me the best possible experience. During these past few weeks, I have learned that tours on a bus with lots of people and few stops may indeed show me the highlights of a city or island, but don’t really allow me time to appreciate the beauty or to process what I’m seeing.
And that’s what happened during this day on the volcanic island of Moorea with its lush green hills, picturesque bays, and sandy beaches. I was one of twenty people on a small bus which only made three short stops on its circle tour around the island. The driver was a native Tahitian, and he regaled us with stories of the history of the island as well details of living here. But I wanted to walk along the beaches we drove past, and to hike up a hill, and to feel the ocean breeze. Instead, I was on a bus, trying to take photos through the window.
The highlight of the drive was getting to Belvedere Point and seeing the panoramic view from 790 feet up. The driver skillfully navigated that bus up a narrow, winding road with no guard rails! The view was indeed spectacular. Two bays separated by Mount Rotui define the coastline of Moorea, giving it a heart-shape. One is the more scenic Opunohu Bay where we landed; the other is Cook’s Bay. We could see all that from this famous vista point.
We stopped at a road-side shop for a mango, banana, pineapple smoothie and a visit to a local black pearl shop. Black pearls are harvested from black-lipped oysters in the warm lagoon waters surrounding French Polynesia, and they are not really pure black! They are iridescent, and shimmer with a range of colors from midnight blue, light to dark silver-gray, and peacock which is a mixture of dark-green and purple-blue. I looked at pendants and earrings, but didn’t buy!
The tour ended back at the pier, and before I headed back to the tender, I spent time shopping at the vendors’ market. I did find a reasonably priced black pearl on a silver chain, and it is certified as “peacock, grade B.” Maybe you’ll see me wear it sometime!
At the end of the day, I still had not found my “island paradise”! O, the island had all the promise of what I was looking for. Some cruise passengers had taken 4×4 vehicles and gone inland to explore the terrain; others had gone to a local beach to enjoy the sun and sand; still others spent time snorkeling in the turquoise blue waters.
Lesson learned: Avoid bus trips if I want a more memorable experience!
Bora Bora
There was one more day left in French Polynesia, and this was to the island of Bora Bora. Even the description of the shore excursion sounded so much better: Motu Islet Lagoon Cruise and Beach Break. No bus this time, but a catamaran boat! In fact, almost the entire day was spent on or in the water!
Another passenger had suggested this outing to me just a few days prior, and I rather hesitantly signed up for it. I’m actually not a fan of being in water, but thought the beach part would be a welcome change for me.
What a surprise I was in for! As the Tahitian crew of the catamaran gave us the safety rules, they told us our first stop was a snorkeling experience in a shallow area known for manta rays and black-tip reef sharks! This was not what I had expected! What was I going to do?
“I can’t do that,” was my first reaction. Then, “But I’m here. I’ll never have this chance again. Maybe I should try!” As the boat zipped over the clear turquoise waters of the lagoon, I put on my water shoes, took off my swimsuit cover-up, and took the snorkel mask offered by a crew member.
There was a circle of boats already in position at the shallow area of the lagoon frequented by the mantas and sharks. My friend showed me how to put on the mask, and I gingerly backed down the set of steps lowered into the water. The water was wonderfully cool and refreshing as I stepped down onto the sand and coral below. I smiled. I kept on smiling. And I began giggling!
I put my head into the water, and the snorkel mask worked! I felt exhilarated, and free! Small yellow and blue fish were darting through the coral, and I was privy to be watching their fun.
Excitedly, people around me began pointing out the circling sharks. We had been told the sharks were harmless unless we reached out to touch them.
I could hardly believe I was here, doing something I never expected to do, and enjoying every single moment!
After 45 minutes of snorkeling, we all got back into the catamaran to travel around the coast of Bora Bora to a small privately-owned island called Motu Tevairoa. A motu is a flat island made from sand and coral. We anchored off the palm-covered, sandy island and waded to shore. The crew had taken along insulated carriers of juice and water, plus fresh fruit, nuts, chips, and brownies for a delightful snack under the coconut trees.
We spent the afternoon relaxing on the island, and enjoying walking and swimming in the warm, crystal-clear water
I had finally found my island paradise!
There was a momentary thought as I totally relaxed in that peaceful place -– “I don’t ever want to leave here.” I felt washed with contentment and filled with serenity. I wanted the memory of the sun and sand and sea to remain forever. How will I find a place back home where I will feel this same inner quietness?
Then I remembered. “He leads me beside the still waters; He restores my soul.” (Psalm 23 :2) How many times hadn’t I experienced just that when I sat along the river near my home, or drove to one that was two hours away to sit in solitary contemplation along the banks. I know I will find this quiet contentment again – even in the flatlands of Illinois – because He restores my soul when that’s what I need!
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